Between the palm trees of Lake Maggiore and the snowy peaks of the Swiss Alps lie two of Ticino’s most enchanting landscapes: the Centovalli and the Maggia Valley. They’re close in distance yet worlds apart in feeling — one a slender canyon crossed by a legendary train line, the other a vast playground of waterfalls and hiking trails. Together they offer travelers the perfect balance between slow travel and wild nature, easily reached from any camping Lago Maggiore site.
The Centovalli – The Valley of a Hundred Valleys
A Landscape Made for Discovery
The Centovalli takes its name from the countless side gorges that split the surrounding mountains — literally, “the valley of a hundred valleys.” Stretching from Locarno in Switzerland to Domodossola in Italy, it’s a land of deep ravines, chestnut forests, and stone hamlets clinging to steep hillsides. Small waterfalls flash between the trees, and narrow bridges link terraces that seem carved by hand from the rock. While other Alpine valleys impress with size, Centovalli seduces with detail. It’s a valley that reveals itself slowly, one bend, one viaduct, one village at a time.
The Centovalli Railway – A Train Through the Clouds
If there is a single experience that defines this region, it’s the Centovalli Railway Centovalli Bahn (Ferrovie Vigezzina–Centovalli). This narrow-gauge line connects Locarno with Domodossola, covering just 52 kilometers — but each one is pure magic. The journey lasts about two hours and is often called one of Europe’s most beautiful train rides.
A Moving Panorama
From the station in Locarno, the small white-and-blue train glides out of town and immediately begins to climb. The tracks twist along cliffs and plunge into tunnels; every few minutes, a new view unfolds: a waterfall spraying mist over the windows, a church tower rising from a sea of trees, a bridge spanning an impossible gorge.
Over 83 bridges and through 31 tunnels, the train passes through villages like Intragna, Verdasio, and Camedo before crossing into Italy. Each stop feels like a step back in time. At Verdasio you can take a cable car up to the tiny mountain village of Rasa, unreachable by road. Intragna’s tall bell tower — Ticino’s highest — offers views across the entire valley.
In autumn the forest blazes gold and scarlet; in spring it glows fresh green. No matter the season, the Centovalli Railway feels like traveling through a living painting.
Practical Travel Tips
- Duration: ≈ 2 hours one-way
- Route: Locarno → Domodossola (or return)
- Season: All year – best scenery April – October
- Tickets: Book online or buy at Locarno FART station
- Highlights: Intragna tower, Verdasio–Rasa cable car, Camedo hiking trails
- Combinations: Many visitors take the train one way and return by boat across Lake Maggiore, making a perfect day trip.
The coaches have large panoramic windows, comfortable seats, and multilingual audio guides that explain the valley’s history and geology. It’s slow, scenic, and completely stress-free — the very definition of Swiss-Italian dolce vita.
Life in the Centovalli
The villages along the line preserve a traditional mountain rhythm. Locals still harvest chestnuts and make honey; children ride the same train to school that visitors take for sightseeing. Small cafés serve espresso on sunny terraces, and guesthouses welcome hikers exploring the forest trails between the stations.
In summer, gentle hikes link the train stops, while in winter the valley glitters with frost and silence. The Centovalli Railway never stops running — a lifeline through snow and sun alike.
The Maggia Valley – Ticino’s Wild Heart
Leaving the Centovalli’s narrow gorges behind, the Maggia Valley / Maggiatal spreads open like a great green amphitheatre. Only a few kilometres north of Locarno, it stretches deep into the Alps, following the Maggia River for more than 50 kilometres.
Where Centovalli whispers through the trees, Maggia roars with water and wind.
A Valley of Waterfalls and Granite
The landscape here is sculpted by water. Smooth granite boulders form natural pools; waterfalls plunge from heights of 80 metres or more. The most famous is the Foroglio Waterfall in the Val Bavona, where white water crashes into a mossy basin beside a tiny stone hamlet. Nearby, narrow lanes wind between ancient houses built entirely of granite, their roofs layered with slate.
Further down the valley, places like Cevio, Gordevio, and Moghegno invite quiet exploration. Each village has a grotto restaurant where you can taste polenta, local cheese, and Ticino Merlot — hearty flavours that perfectly match the mountain air.
Hiking, Swimming, and Relaxation
The Maggia Valley is made for outdoor adventure. Dozens of trails weave through chestnut forests and alpine pastures. Families love the easy riverside path near Someo; experienced hikers aim higher, towards alpine huts and glacier views.
In summer, the turquoise Maggia River becomes a natural playground. Locals and campers sunbathe on flat rocks or swim in the cool, clear water near Ponte Brolla — one of Ticino’s favourite wild-swimming spots. It’s a scene of pure freedom, where the only soundtrack is rushing water and laughter.
Culture and Authentic Charm
While the Maggia Valley feels remote, it’s full of living culture. The Valmaggia Museum in Cevio traces centuries of mountain life, from shepherding to emigration. Festivals celebrate chestnuts, wine, and local crafts. In small churches, 16th-century frescoes glow in candlelight — quiet reminders of Ticino’s artistic heritage.
Unlike the Centovalli, which many visitors pass through by train, the Maggia Valley encourages you to stay awhile, explore on foot, and simply breathe.
Centovalli vs. Maggia Valley – Two Worlds, One Region
| Aspect | Centovalli | Maggia Valley |
|---|---|---|
| Character | Narrow, forested, connected by scenic railway | Broad, wild, filled with waterfalls |
| Main Attraction | Centovalli Railway (Locarno–Domodossola) | Foroglio Waterfall & Maggia River pools |
| Best For | Slow travel, photography, culture | Hiking, swimming, outdoor adventure |
| Vibe | Peaceful, nostalgic, cross-border charm | Energetic, natural, untamed beauty |
| Access | By train from Locarno station | By car or bus from Locarno city center |
Together they represent the full spectrum of Ticino: the precision and calm of Switzerland mixed with the warmth and colour of Italy. One offers movement and perspective; the other offers immersion and stillness.
Camping Lago Maggiore – The Perfect Base Between Valleys
For travellers based at Lake Maggiore, both valleys are within easy reach. From your camping Lago Maggiore site in Locarno, Ascona, or Cannobio, you can spend one day gliding through the Centovalli by train and the next hiking through the Maggia’s waterfalls. Imagine waking up by the lake, having breakfast under palm trees, and then deciding: railway adventure or mountain hike? Afterwards, return to your campsite for an evening swim and a lakeside dinner — the perfect blend of Alpine and Mediterranean living.
Why Campers Love It
- Central location for both valleys
- Modern facilities, private beaches, EV-charging, bike rentals
- Restaurants serving local specialties
- Peaceful atmosphere under the Ticino sun
Lakeview Cannobio Camping & Resort is one of the best examples — a lakefront resort with easy access to Locarno and both valley entrances.
Travel Tips
- Best Season: April – October (spring for waterfalls, autumn for colours).
- Tickets: Book the Centovalli Railway online; bring ID for border crossing.
- Gear: Comfortable shoes, swimsuit, and a camera — you’ll need all three.
- Safety: Rivers can rise quickly after rain; always check local advice.
- Combine adventures: Ride the train to Italy, have lunch in Domodossola, return by ferry to Locarno, then next day explore the Maggia trails.
Conclusion – Two Journeys Through the Soul of Ticino
The Centovalli and the Maggia Valley are two contrasting masterpieces carved by nature and time. The train through the Centovalli is a moving poem — a window onto forests, bridges, and sunlit villages. The Maggia Valley is a hymn to raw beauty — waterfalls crashing into turquoise pools, mountains echoing with birds and silence. From your camping Lago Maggiore base, you can experience both: glide through a century of Swiss-Italian history by rail one day, and lose yourself among granite rocks and wild rivers the next.
Here in Ticino, adventure and tranquility live side by side. The Centovalli and the Maggia Valley are not rivals — they’re reflections of each other, two paths leading to the same discovery: that paradise, sometimes, is just a train ride or a short drive away.
