Miami offers a taste of Haiti, no passport needed

The Haitian Heritage Museum, in the Design District, attempts to put Haiti’s mix of cultures and beliefs in historical context. The Church of Notre Dame d’Haiti has a stained glass window illustrating the life of Pierre Toussaint, who was born a slave in Haiti, became a society hairdresser and philanthropist in New York, and has been declared venerable by the Catholic Church, a stage in the process toward sainthood. A mural in the church shows important figures in modern Haitian history: migrants, leaving the Caribbean country by boat and by plane, under the watchful gaze of Haiti’s patroness, Our Lady of Perpetual Help.

Haitian news, histories, folk tales and dictionaries to help decipher them all can be found at the bookstore Libreri Mapou. The owner, playwright Jan Mapou, also sells his homemade Kremas Mapou, a syrupy blend of milk, coconut and rum.

Compas — popular, jazzy Haitian dance music — often blares through the open doors of shops selling Haitian, Caribbean and African music and movies. Sometimes the sound of tin horns and conga drums comes from musicians jamming at a Little Haiti car wash — the home of Rara Lakay, a rara band that hosts a Voodoo celebration of the dead around Halloween.

An annual compas festival has drawn thousands to a downtown Miami park in recent springs, while on weekends popular Haitian singers fill clubs and restaurants well beyond the traditional boundaries of Little Haiti.

CARIBBEAN FLAVOR

Maybe the best way to experience Haiti in Miami is to taste it in dishes like savory “griot,” or fried pork. In Haitian cuisine, beef, chicken and fish come fried, grilled or broiled in light sauces and spices, with slices of lime and helpings of rice and beans or plantains on the side.

In Little Haiti, join the locals meeting up for conch, shrimp, crab and oxtail at Chef Creole’s outdoor counter. At Lakay Tropical Ice Cream, sample flavors such as passion fruit, coconut and sour sap, along with breads, pastries and milkshakes — most for less than $3.

Moca Cafe, in North Miami, serves up Haitian seafood dishes in a more formal restaurant with a sky-blue ceiling. After dinner on many nights, the tables get put away so dancers can groove to live compas, zouk and twoubadou acts.

Tap Tap offers some of the best values on South Beach, especially on mojitos. The minty drinks here are made with Barbancourt, Haiti’s own dark rum. Haitian protest singer and one-time Port-au-Prince mayor Manno Charlemagne and a band provide the casual restaurant’s folk-jazz-with-a-dash-of-politics soundtrack twice a week.
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If You Go …

A guided tour of Little Haiti and its businesses can be arranged at http://www.MiamiCulturalTours.com. It’s easy to self-explore the neighborhood’s main intersection, though. Head to NE Second Avenue and NE 54th Street; Chef Creole to the west, Notre Dame d’Haiti church to the north and an English pub/punk rock venue called Churchill’s to the south roughly mark the boundaries of Little Haiti’s main district. Little Haiti is considered impoverished compared with South Beach, but 24-hour security at the cultural center, an increased police presence and the city’s improvements to its main streets are making the area more visitor-friendly.

LOOK FOR:

Serge Toussaint’s murals: http://www.sergesigns.vpweb.com

Libreri Mapou: 5919 NE Second Ave., http://www.librerimapou.com

Haitian Heritage Museum: 3940 N. Miami Ave., http://www.haitianheritagemuseum.org

Jakmel Art Gallery: 7646 Biscayne Blvd., http://www.jakmelartgallery.com

Haitian Art Factory: 835 NE 79th St., http://www.haitianartfactory.com

Made in Haiti boutique: 4600 NE Second Ave., http://www.madeinhaiti.net

Little Haiti Cultural Center: 260 NE 59th Terrace

Notre Dame d’Haiti Mission: 110 NE 62nd St.

EAT:

Chef Creole: 200 NW 54th St., http://www.chefcreole.com

Tap Tap: 819 Fifth St., http://www.taptaprestaurant.com

Lakay Tropical Ice Cream: 91 NE 54th St.

Moca Cafe: 738 NE 125th St.

PLAN AHEAD:

Haitian concert and entertainment news is updated on http://www.sakapfet.com/ and http://www.kompamagazine.com

Annual Haitian Compas Festival in May: http://www.compasfestival.net