Introducing the ski-free ski holiday

Rising with the lark to put in eight hours on the slopes before collapsing in a sweaty heap, ski holidays could often be synonymous with a hard grind — but not any more.

These days a ski break does not have to involve much actual skiing at all. Spas, good food and wine, nature treks and a raft of leisure activities rival for tourists’ attention, say French ski industry experts.

“The state of mind of holiday-makers has changed in 30 years. Nowadays it’s not so much about effort as about enjoyment,” says Laurent Reynaud, general delegate of France’s national ski lift operator.

“People used to come here for sport. Now they come for pleasure.”

Seven million people — two million of them foreign tourists — converge on France’s dense network of ski villages and purpose-built resorts from December to April each year, the largest number after the United States.

But the average time they spend whizzing up and down the mountain has dropped from six hours a day two decades ago, to just four hours now, Reynaud says.

This has changed the rules of the game for ski resorts, which in France had been firmly turned towards intensive sport ever since skiing exploded as a mainstream leisure activity in the 1960s and 1970s.

“Tourists just don’t want skiing to be synonymous with a hard slog any more,” says Isabelle Pochat-Cottilloux, head of the tourism office in Grand-Bornand, a family-friendly resort in the Alps that bills itself as “festive and rejuvenating.”

“People in a same family will be looking for different things,” she says.

While dad might want to hit the slopes all day, mum may head to the spa and coffee room, their teenage daughter will go ice skating and her brother will check out a movie before an afternoon’s snowboarding.