10 great places to savor winter’s flavors

Komi
Washington, D.C.

Komi always has several pastas on the menu in the winter, including a pappardelle with a ragout of rabbit and olives, spaghetti with a creamy sea urchin, and agnolotti, a ravioli-like pasta stuffed with Kabuki squash and served with pork sausage. “The sweetness of the Kabuki squash plays off the fattiness of the sausage for this really luscious flavor,” Knowlton says. 202-332-9200; komirestaurant.com

The Publican
Chicago

Tuna tartare and beet-and-goat-cheese dishes used to be required on most menus, but charcuterie plates have nudged their way to the top spot. The Publican butchers organically raise animals in-house and serve up plates of sausage, hams, pâtés and terrines. “There’s nothing better than a charcuterie plate and beer,” Knowlton says. “It’s the perfect lunch in winter.” 312-733-9555; thepublicanrestaurant.com

Askinosie
Springfield, Mo.

“Since there’s not a lot of sunlight in the winter, you need chocolate. It’s your sunshine,” Knowlton says. To satisfy your chocolate fix, try Askinosie. The company specializes in bean-to-bar chocolates, working directly with farmers from around the world to find the best chocolate. Restaurants around the country use their chocolates, but you can also scoop some up online. 417-862-9900; askinosie.com

Nostrana
Portland, Ore.

Many of the foods we crave in winter have a high factor of “umami,” considered the fifth taste after bitter, salty, sweet and sour. Chanterelles, bright orange mushrooms with a meaty taste and fruity smell, are rich in umami, which may be why many consider them “the pinnacle of mushrooms.” Nostrana features a trio of chanterelle dishes that includes scamorza cheese with chanterelles and bruschetta, farro or wheat barley with chanterelles in a risotto-style dish, and chanterelles brushed with marsala wine and served as a rillete. 503-234-2427; nostrana.com

Drink
Boston

Warm cocktails used to garner the same turned-up noses as cheap hot sake. “People were just mixing two things together and not putting a lot of thought into them,” Knowlton says. The cocktail revolution has changed that, as many bars began serving well-balanced warm cocktails, including a Tom and Jerry, a dark rum and cognac cocktail, and the Bishop’s Punch, a clove-studded orange that’s baked and mixed with hot port, sugar and nutmeg. 617-695-1806; drinkfortpoint.com