10 great places to have a slice of National Pie Day
January 22, 2010 ·
When it’s time for dessert on Saturday, make sure to order pie. It’s National Pie Day — as if the American Pie Council really needed to give us an excuse to have a slice. Whether sweet or tart, flaky or crusty, pie is an American tradition, says Ed Levine, founder of SeriousEats, a website devoted to the pleasure, culture and business of food. Levine has sampled slices across the nation, he shares his favorite pie purveyors.
Hoosier Mama Pie Company
Chicago
Even when pastry chef Paula Haney was baking for some of Chicago’s best restaurants, she always had pies on her mind. Last March, the Indiana native finally opened her own place, and Levine says she hit the mark. “There’s a focus in her shop on double-crusted pie. They’re the least forgiving. There are a lot of things that can go wrong.” Levine particularly likes the raspberry pie (served in-season only). “Raspberries are wonderful, simultaneously sweet and tart. I was so impressed with her and this pie. It was the perfect texture and crust.” 312-243-4846; hoosiermamapie.com
Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q
Decatur, Ala.
This Dixie restaurant doesn’t skimp on dessert — it bakes pies fresh daily. “They make those classic mile-high Southern pies,” Levine says. “They tower and can fall if they’re placed on your table at the wrong angle.” His favorite here: coconut cream. But chocolate meringue and lemon icebox have devoted followings, too. 256-350-6969; bigbobgibsonbbq.com
Scratch
Durham, N.C.
You’ll find these pies only on Saturdays at the Durham Farmers’ Market, but Levine says it’s worth the wait to sample creations such as buttermilk sweet potato pie and vanilla sugar pie. It’s all from Phoebe Lawless, who Levine says is an endlessly curious, seasonal, artisan baker. “She’s obsessive and knows her fillings, and her pies reflect that passion.” Her creations will be more readily available this spring, when she plans to open a shop in downtown Durham. 919-489-9431; piefantasy.com
Great Traverse Pie Company
Traverse City, Mich.
Some say Northern Michigan grows the best cherries in the world. So naturally, it makes some of the best cherry pies. While he was researching a book, Levine once spent a day working the pie line at this small chain. “They literally still make every pie by hand. They’re not stamping out any pie crusts by machine.” With dozens of selections, it’s hard to go wrong, but Levine is partial to the cherry-peach crumb. 231-922-7437; gtpie.com
Square Meal
New York
Even busy New Yorkers will take time for a good piece of pie, and Levine likes to raise his fork at this Upper East Side restaurant. He calls chef Yura Mohr “the unsung comfort-food queen of New York.” He says her apple pie is superb, but he also is ecstatic about her in-season Maine blueberry pie. “It’s not too liquid, not too gelatinous. Her blueberry pie is just perfect.” 212-860-9872; squaremealnyc.com; takeout is also available at Yura on Madison, 212-860-1707; yuraonmadison.com


